Painting.
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
Now it’s time for the last chapter in this story, the painting of the engine. For me this is a very funny part, now I can really see how the outcome will be.
First I painted the fundament …
…I have chosen a dark blue colour, and I think it goes very well to the polish bronze.
And now this steam engine is finish, thank you for washing this blog.
I’ll be back
It was a while sense I post an update, I was force to take a break, I was tired off building and it’s not good to build if you are not in to it.
But now, I have been started again, this time with the small equipment that connects the steam pipe and so on.
The Pipe Flanges
The pipe flanges is a bronze casting, well done and easy to perform.
After cutting them apart with my hacksaw …
..I mount it on my lathe, centre drill, and drill hole…
…and threading ¼ 32.
I also make a mandrill, treading ¼ 32 for use on my lathe.
Here I clear up the one side, if you look you can see a small centre hole. This is for use later on.
Here I have turned the piece around for clearing the other side …
…and then marked out for drilling…
…and also drilling the hole.
And then some good filing.
And the result, not too bad, right?
This is a little tool I made to fit in the cylinder block…
…and here I’ll just need to mark out where the hole would be…
…and drill and treading…
…and it suit very good.
Next is an extension of hexagonal brass…
…and it needs some lathe operation.
I’ll turn down for threading ¼ 32…
… and it’s a just an easy operation in the lathe.
Then some more turns…
…and begun to cut off…
…but first centre drill…
…and drilled true.
And this is how it should be…
…and here it’s finish. It connects the steam from the high pressure cylinder to the low-pressure cylinder. This is not as Stuart has drawn it, but I think it looks nicer.
And here mounted on the cylinder block.
There are two more flanges to do.
This is for the steam outlet pip. ..
…and this is for the steam inlet pip.
Next is the cylinder cover. I use a paper as a mall…
…and marked out for the hole and cutting.
Then drilling and threading.
And now the main part of my steam engine is finish.
So far, I feel very pleased, but now I have to demount the whole engine for paintwork and then mount it again. For the last time I hope.
I’ll be back.
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
Now it’s time for the head, that connecting the valve road with the eccentric rods.
A piece of mild still in the lathe…
…and some turns and center drill.
After drilling and cut off…
…then in the mill some more drilling for connecting to the eccentric rods.
Then with an end mill…
…and it begun to look as a head.
Then some threading for connecting to the valve rods…
…and then finish off with some end mill.
After some work with a good fill and some polish…
…and here is how it looks on the engine.
Next the eccentric.
First I have to center drill…
…then some turn on the lathe…
…and then turning the small track on the eccentric.
Half way done.
And now a very crazy setup, I was force to use the cuck from mu unimat be course I was unable to clamp it to the original chuck.
Center drill…
…and drilled…
… and reaming.
Then drilling and trheading for the stop screw.
And this job was finish…
…and mounted.
Now the last part, the eccentric rod.
First I have to measure and mark out where to cut and where to drill…
…then drill the hole for the bolts before cutting off the parts.
I’ll then use an end mill so the bolts head could fit better…
…on both side.
Then with my hacksaw I cut the part…
…and threading the bottom part.
Some turns on the lathe…
…and then borring the inside…
…and checking so the hole fits well to the eccentric.
Next I have done a little special for turning the track inside the eccentric rod.
And again checking the result…
…then back to the mill for milling the surface…
…and then some more milling.
And now some filling and polish…
…and the result…
…and then mounting to the engine.
Well she is beginning to look like the real thing. It is not so many parts to manufacturing but it’s still long way to go before she’s run.
I’ll be back.
Benni
Now it’s time to take care of the steam chest. This is a very important piece of the steam engine, it’s truly the heart of the steam engine.
I’ll begin with the cover. The cover has a spigot on the backside so it’s very easy to set up in the lathe.
Here I have set up the cover in my lathe for removing the cast skins.
After that I move the cover to my mill so I can mill the side in square.
Then with a hacksaw I cut of the spigot.
Then flatten the backside.
Now I have to mark out for all holes…
… and drilled the holes and countersink the holes.
I feel quite pleased with the result.
I’ll continue with the steam chests. In the lathe I set up the steam chest in a four jaw chuck and took some turn on the top making the valve rod guide…
… and the bottom for the packing gland.
With a good fill I smooth the packing gland.
Moving over to the mill for milling both sides to the steam chest…
Then I milled both sides…
… and the insides as well.
And now I have four pieces so far.
Next, drilling the holes for the valve rod guide…
…and then using an end mill for the packing gland.
After that I drilled the hole for the steam inlet.
A new setup so I could drill the hole into the steam chest.
After two holes I’ll use bolt and nuts to hold the two pieces together.
And here we go.
Then, using the cover I drilled the holes in the cylinder block…
…and threaded the cylinder block with help of a top hat.
The stem chest with the cover seams to fits very well.
Next, the packing glands.
First I have to cutting of the pieces…
…and the in the lathe for some turns, flatten one side and center drill /drilled a hole.
Then I use a spigot so I could turn the other side.
Marking for the holes for the stud, then threaded and then drilling through …
…and after some good work with my fill I have to check so it fits well.
No it’s time for the valve roads.
After cutting the parts I took some turn in the lathe and threaded the valve roads …
…in both end.
And now there is to more pieces to the steam chest.
Next, the valve.
First in the mill I flatted both sides…
…trying to have a smooth side on the valve.
Then drilled throe …
…and then mill a track in the valve.
And now two more pieces finish.
Then I cut of a piece of bras…
…and mark up for a hole to be drilled…
…and threaded…
…and again check for fitting.
Then with a hacksaw and a fill I’ll got this…
…and it fits well in the steam chest.
And now another piece is finish.
This update took some times, it was radar many pieces to make and they have to be accurate, but nothing bad happened so I am very pleased over this update.
I’ll be back.
Hello Ladeys and Gentlemen.
At last I found some time to continue my build of Stuarts Compound Engine. This time it’s the connecting rod, and it is a very important part of the engine. They have to be in straight line, square and the dimension must be exact.
Here is the casting of the connecting road, as you can see there is plenty of material to remove.
First I have to square the bottom end with an end mill.
And after that I have to draw out and mark where the holes for the crankshaft should
be.
Next I drilled the top and bottom end…
… and this is for my set up in my lathe.
It shows up that this set up was not so good idea, so I changed to this.
And now I could finish some parts on the lathe.
Then I drilled some holes for the bolt before I partial bottom end in two parts.
Then I use a hacksaw…
…and there was two parts of each connecting roads.
Next I drilled the hole for the crankshaft.
And some more turn on the lathe.
This set up looks crazy but it is to help me drilling the holes square for connecting to the crosshead.
After that some milling.
Here I try to round off the top part.
And here we go, two connecting roads are finish.
And then I mounted the connecting roads on the engine.
This was a little tricky to do but another part is finish, but still there is a lot more to do.
I’ll be back
Crossheads
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
Today I continue with the crosshead, not a major update but a very important part of the engine.
The crosshead is connected between the piston road and Connecting Rods and in a groove in the Crosshead Guides.
The crosshead is a very fine casting made of bronze.
I began with a setup on my mill, and square the part.
Here I have done all of the four side of the crosshead.
Then I move the crosshead to the lathe and make the connecter for the Piston Road.
After center drill, I have to drill a hole…
…and threading for the Piston Road.
So far I’ll get this.
Then some more turns on the lathe for that part that fits the groove in the Crosshead Guides and then drilling/treading.
And now I can check so I know that it fits well.
Next drilling for the hole to the Connection Road…
…and then I have to mill the edges straight.
And after some filling and polish I’ll get this.
Mounted on the engine, the backside looks like this…
…and then the other side.
Even this miner update was little tricky because all dimension has to be correct and the angel must be straight, in other words I have to do some small adjustment but now I am pleased. 
I’ll be back.
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen
Pistons, pistons road and cylinder glands.
Now it’s time to take care of the heart of the steam engine, the powertrain. It’s about the pistons, the piston road and the cylinder glands.
Pistons:
The pistons are casting in very good quality.
The first thing I did, was setting it up in the lathe and took some turn to flatten the top.
Then some more turns to make the 45 degree angle and then I did the edge.
Next I drilled and threaded for the pistons road.
And then turn the casting round and turn the edge, bottom and inside of the pistons.
Then I made a little mandrill so I could mount the piston. Then turn the piston down to the correct dimension and then cut the track for the piston rings.
And here I have done the both pistons.
Piston road
The piston roads are made from silver steel…
…and have to cut off in a proper length and turn down in the both ends for threading.
Then I have to cut down a little bit so that threading fits the piston.
This was a very easy job and it also fits the piston well.
Cylinder glands.
The cylinder glands are made of bronze casting…
…and first I have to use a hacksaw to cut it in two pieces.
Then in the lathe some turns so I have a good surfers and then center drill, drilled and threaded so I can mount it on a mandrill and finish of the bottom side.
Next I have to mark and drill the holes for mounting the glands to the bottom cover.
Then I set up the cylinder, bottom cover and gland on the mill for drilling and threading.
And then testing so the glands fits well.
After a bit of filling and emery cloth, then back to the lathe for drilling and reaming.
And again check so it fits well.
And now another piece is finish on my compound.
She is beginning to look radar pretty, isn’t she? 
I’ll be back
Drain Cocks.
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
You may think I’m a little crazy but I have decided to continue this building blog with the drain cocks. This is a tip from my Canadian friend Mr. John Bentley. The drain cocks are very important equipment for the live steam engine. Its main task is to prevent the water stays in the cylinder, so it must be opened on when you start the machine, and then close it. Similarly when to stop the machine, you have to open to prevent water stay left in the cylinder.
First I start up with a brass bar and a small drawing how the body should be…
…then some turn on the lathe for the threading…
…and then I did the threading.
Then I drilled a hole …
…and some more turns on the lathe so I got this shape.
Here I test so the threading is correct.
And here I have done all four of them.
In the drill I needed to find the center…
…and then the middle…
…then drill the hole.
Of silver steel I made a tapered reamer so I can have a tapered hole…
…and finish off with a bottom pin for a fine surfers.
Here are the finish bodies.
And now I have to deal with the plug, first in the lathe and run a few turn for the threading…
…and for tapping…
…and some more turns on the lathe…
…then threading.
Then I have to check so the plug fits well in the body.
Then I have to bend it with some heat.
Then I have to make some washers, springs and nuts.
Then I mount the drain cock and put it in the drill so I can drill true the plug.
And here all of the drain cocks are mounted on the cylinder block.
This was a very fun equipment to make not so hard to do, but very small.
I’ll be back.
Crosshead_Guides
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
Now it’s time for the crosshead guides. The crosshead guides serves to connect the bottom covers to the bracket and allow the crosshead to run in a groove for guiding the connecting rod so it runs straight.
The crosshead guides is made of steel.
First I have to part of the steel plate and mark up for the hole…
…and then drilled to the right size.
Then find the centerline and mark it…
…and mille the track.
Here I have done both crosshead guides.
Next job is to mill the underside of the bottom cover so I got the accurate measure. ..
…and drill the hole for the crosshead guide.
Then threading the bottom cover…
…and drilled the bracket…
…and threading again.
Then mount the crosshead guides between the bottom cover and the bracket.
Now it looks like my Compound has got his suspenders…
Crosshead guides
These operations took some time but whom is in hurry…
I’ll be back
Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.
The story goes on, now it’s time for the bottom covers.
First I set up the casting in my lathe…
…and clean the edge and make sure that the dimension is correct.
Then I clean up the bottom and center drilled…
…and drilled and reamed the hole for the piston rods.
After that I’ll use an end mille so I could get a seat for road glands for the piston rod.
Here is the bottom of the HP and LP bottom cover finish.
No the other side of the bottom cover, some turns on the lathe and its finish.
The finish bottom cover.
Now I have to find the centerline and the middle between the HP and LP cylinder…
…and then drill a hole.
Now I have the distance so I can continue on my round table.
After drilling and easy using an end mille both cover is now finish.
Then I marked up where to drill on the cylinder block.
Then threading the hole…
…and mount the studs.
After that I remove some materials so the covers fit together.
And then I have to check so I could mount the bottom cover to the cylinder block.
And now the machine has both hats and pants on.
Bottom Cover
Both the top cover and the bottom cover were a little tricky to maintain, but I took my time and so far I can’t see that I have done some wrong. I hope that I never got to see that…
I’ll be back.
Benni Svensson
My project 