Compound – Drain Cocks


Drain Cocks.

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.

You may think I’m a little crazy but I have decided to continue this building blog with the drain cocks. This is a tip from my Canadian friend Mr. John Bentley. The drain cocks are very important equipment for the live steam engine. Its main task is to prevent the water stays in the cylinder, so it must be opened on when you start the machine, and then close it. Similarly when to stop the machine, you have to open to prevent water stay left in the cylinder.

First I start up with a brass bar and a small drawing how the body should be…

…then some turn on the lathe for the threading…

…and then I did the threading.

Then I drilled a hole …

…and some more turns on the lathe so I got this shape.

Here I test so the threading is correct.

And here I have done all four of them.

In the drill I needed to find the center…

…and then the middle…

…then drill the hole.

Of silver steel I made a tapered reamer so I can have a tapered hole…

…and finish off with a bottom pin for a fine surfers.

Here are the finish bodies.

And now I have to deal with the plug, first in the lathe and run a few turn for the threading…

…and for tapping…

…and some more turns on the lathe…

…then threading.

Then I have to check so the plug fits well in the body.

Then I have to bend it with some heat.

Then I have to make some washers, springs and nuts.

Then I mount the drain cock and put it in the drill so I can drill true the plug.

And here all of the drain cocks are mounted on the cylinder block.

This was a very fun equipment to make not so hard to do, but very small.

I’ll be back. 

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Compound – Crosshead Guides


Crosshead_Guides

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.

Now it’s time for the crosshead guides. The crosshead guides serves to connect the bottom covers to the bracket and allow the crosshead to run in a groove for guiding the connecting rod so it runs straight.

The crosshead guides is made of steel.

First I have to part of the steel plate and mark up for the hole…

…and then drilled to the right size.

Then find the centerline and mark it…

…and mille the track.

Here I have done both crosshead guides.

Next job is to mill the underside of the bottom cover so I got the accurate measure. ..

…and drill the hole for the crosshead guide.

Then threading the bottom cover…

…and drilled the bracket…

…and threading again.

Then mount the crosshead guides between the bottom cover and the bracket.

Now it looks like my Compound has got his suspenders…

Crosshead guides

These operations took some time but whom is in hurry…

I’ll be back

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Compound – Bottom Covers


Bottom Covers

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.

The story goes on, now it’s time for the bottom covers.

First I set up the casting in my lathe…

…and clean the edge and make sure that the dimension is correct.

Then I clean up the bottom and center drilled…

…and drilled and reamed the hole for the piston rods.

After that I’ll use an end mille so I could get a seat for road glands for the piston rod.

Here is the bottom of the HP and LP bottom cover finish.

No the other side of the bottom cover, some turns on the lathe and its finish.

The finish bottom cover.

Now I have to find the centerline and the middle between the HP and LP cylinder…

…and then drill a hole.

Now I have the distance so I can continue on my round table.

After drilling and easy using an end mille both cover is now finish.

Then I marked up where to drill on the cylinder block.

Then threading the hole…

…and mount the studs.

After that I remove some materials so the covers fit together.

And then I have to check so I could mount the bottom cover to the cylinder block.

And now the machine has both hats and pants on.

Bottom Cover

Both the top cover and the bottom cover were a little tricky to maintain, but I took my time and so far I can’t see that I have done some wrong.  I hope that I never got to see that…

I’ll be back.

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Compound – Top Covers


Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.

Now
it’s time to take care of the top covers. There are two, one for the HP cylinder and one for the LP cylinder.

After the set up in the lathe, I clean up the bottom side, and the edge that fits in the cylinder.

Then turn around and clean the edge…

…and after a special setup I did the top side of the covers.

Here I have done both HP and LP top cover.

Now I have to find the middle of the centerline between HP and LP cylinder.

When that is done I market out for the hole…

…and drilled / threaded. Then I marked a line with a center drill because this material has to remove.

Then in the round table I center drilled / drilled and finish off with an end mill.

Then I placed on the cylinder block and drilled the hole.

Then I threaded the hole…

…and check so it fits well.

Then I remove some material so the two covers fits together…

…and with some adjustment it will do.

And this is how it looks so far.

One big step for me, one small step for the Compound.

I’ll be back.

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Compound – Cylinder block


Hello Laddies and Gentlemen!

Now when I have got my new tools, it’s time for me to move on with the cylinder block.

As you can see on the picture there is much material to remove.

The first thing is too straight up the bottom so I have something to work from…

…and with an end mill it is done radar quickly.

I then did the top at the same time and finish off with a fly cutter.

Then I did the sides…

… and even here I finish off with the fly cutter.

Then I did some more work with the end mill.

I took this photo true my magnifying lamp, when I marked up for the columns…

…and I can see that the column fits very well with my smaller nuts.

After that I marked up the centerline…

…and I can at last use my new tool, the boring head. I began with the HP cylinder.

Then I have to reaming the HP cylinder…

…and finish of with honing the HP cylinder.

Then it’s time for the LP cylinder, first using the borring head.

Then reaming the LP cylinder, this time I have to use my lathe…

After horning the LP cylinder I marked out the hole for the drain cocks, then drilled and threaded the hole.

I feel radar pleased so far.

Now it’s time to take care of the steam exhaust from the HP cylinder…

…and with an end mill I finish the steam passage.

So far so good, but it’s still long way to go.

Cylinder block

The cylinder block was radar hard to do, many dimensions that must fit, and everything have to be straight, but I think that I have manage that…

I’ll be back.

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Compound – Oil Cups


Hello Ladies and Gentlemen.

You must be wandering what I am up to, but I feel to play around a bit with the oil cups.

Oil Cups

Ones again I follow a suggestion from Mr. John R. Bentley  and I am not going to use brass, instead I am using hexagon steel bar.

As you can see on my skis, it’s a very simple oil cup, but it will stand out.

So, first in the lathe where I marked out the length and prepare for the threading.

Then I threaded the oil cup…

…and some deep turns so the threading can go to the bottoms.

Then some more turns on the lathe …

… so that I can shape the cups.
Then drilling a 1 mm hole from the bottom.

After cut off I turn the cup around and drilled 4.5 mm hole.

And after some clean up I feel radar pleased.

And they fit well with the rest of the engine.

Again no big update, but now it will take a while before I post something new, I will begin whith the cylinder block.

I’ll be back

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Compound – Bracket


Hello Ladies and Gentlemen
The update continues, this time it’s the bracket that need to bee done.

Crosshead Guides

It is therefore critical that all dimensions must be exact.

I first begun with the fly cutter for a smooth surface…

… then some milling and …
…drilling and reaming the holes for the columns.

Then milling the radios…


…then drilling…

…and threading for the stop screw.

And now checking…

…and it looks like everything is ok.

Even this was just a miner update, but those things are necessary for the complete engine.

I’ll be back.

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